Mandai with Teri (Published article in Collaboration with Teri Hall)

Teri was in India for a while but I met her just two days before she was scheduled to return to the US. She had seen much of Pune but had missed the Mandai and Tulshibaug. Knowing she would love the Mandai I offered to show her around and made it on morning of the last day of her stay.

At the Mandai we spent an incredible two hours, wandering among the lanes and by lanes, taking in the different colours and sights of the various stalls. Showing Teri around and explaining various things to her, I realized how much of our culture and customs were entwined with these lanes. So many items available in these stalls were used for ceremonies, pujas, marriages, and the everyday activities of us Indians. They manifested more than any other things, our true distinctiveness.

On the way we had stopped for quick pictures at Kumbhar wada and Shaniwar wada.
At Kumbharwada through explaining about the brightly painted pots and tiny earthen diyas, I had informed Teri about Dahi handi and Diwali.

Reaching the Mandai we began our exploration from the shops that displayed brassware; temple bells, lamps, intricately made statues from Nepal and South India. There was one especially beautiful statue, of Lord Krishna we both admired, very elaborate in its design and details. Passing the shops of utensils, the stacks of burnished copper samovars caught Teri's eye and I explained how they were used.

We entered one of the lanes of the Mandai, where a host of paan shops with their display of bright green and glossy paan leaves were a treat for us photographers. A lady sat on the ground selling fruits on little thalis and I explained to Teri that the fruit was for puja offering. We passed lanes of fruit sellers, vegetable sellers, and then reached the Burud Ali. Burud children, small and big immediately began posing for group photographs. Whenever I take pictures of children playing on the streets of Pune, it never fails to amaze me how quickly they gather in the most endearing poses and how well behaved they are. Teri just couldn't stop clicking.

Later passing the shops selling their vivid and vibrant coloured wares for pujas and marriages, we entered the little lane of bangle shops. Here a bangle seller offered to show Teri his wares and made her wear a beautiful set of coloured metal bangles. Teri was quite entranced with the beauty of the bangles and bought them, also buying some for her niece. Later, at another shop where she bought a set of handmade dolls, the shop keeper presented her with a henna cone. Everyone was extremely captivated with her manners and her way of slightly bowing her head to thank people for their kindness, or for posing for a picture.

From the Mandai we made our way to Tulshibaug which added to the enchantment Teri had already experienced at the Mandai. One of the sights that entranced her was the flute seller, softly playing his melodious flute.

At the end of the visit she said she could wander in those lanes for days.
Though Teri has returned to the US she has been kind enough to agree to share her impressions and feelings on her visit to India and especially to the Mandai.

I arrived for my first visit to India in mid March. I had very little expectation or pre-conceived notion as to what India was or was not. I brought my 18 year old son with me. For my first visit we flew into Delhi. Although being tired and disoriented I couldn't help but to stand in the international airport and stare at a large sign that read something to the effect of "We could do our laundry by machine, but it wouldn't decorate our landscape!" After receiving our luggage, we found ourselves whisked off to the domestic airport for our flight to Pune. We were dropped at the wrong terminal at the domestic airport and so we decided to walk to the correct terminal. I was amazed and totally entertained by all the new sights, smells, traffic and what I perceived as organized chaos. We walked down a little alley where a group of teenage boys were hanging out. At first I felt a little intimidation and fear of the group. This fear and intimidation turned quickly into amazement as one of the boys unzipped his jeans and relieved himself on the street. My son was horrified but I couldn't stop laughing.

I had a wonderful experience my first stay in India, while my son couldn't get home soon enough. He is 6'4" with blond hair. Because of his physical size and blond hair he was the object of stares, whispers and amusement. Because of his age he felt self conscious and uncomfortable. While in Pune for work, I also took the opportunity to explore and learn. My favorite part of the Indian culture that I got to participate in was the school yard game of Kabadi. My co-workers were amazed that I knew of the game I and asked them to teach me. It was fantastic! As soon as I got back to the US , I taught all my nieces and nephews. It is now the favorite game at our family parties!

I arrived back in India in the first part July; I was so excited to come back to Pune. India is now a part of who I am and I will never stay away for too long. This time in India most of my precious time was spent at work and I had little opportunity to explore the immense city of Pune . Because of this, I spent my free time wandering the little roads and neighborhoods near my apartment. There is a little water buffalo farm that I enjoyed visiting very much. One morning I wondered over there with my camera. I was invited to take pictures of everyone working there and of the buffaloes. There was a little calf that would smile when I petted his head, he was especially cute!

I had been warned by my company that I needed to be very careful wandering the streets of Pune. I was cautioned that it was dangerous and I should never go anywhere alone. I did not find this to be the case at anytime. I believe that I was in greatest danger any time I was in traffic.
My last day in India was by far my most favorite and memorable day. Pari took me to several wonderful places that I had never heard of. According to her these places were the heart and soul of Pune. I got into the Mandai and found myself in heaven! I stood there in a daze in the busy streets with myriads of people, being totally amazed at the ways of life, the skills, and the cacophony of noises, smells and colors!

I have experienced paan before and after experiencing the Mandai I have to say, that the explosion of sensations I experienced when I popped that first paan into my mouth, is the same explosion of sensations I had standing in the middle of the street in the Mandai. It was fabulous!

The Mandai building is an amazing architectural wonder. I couldn't seem to be able to get enough pictures of it. I also am fascinated and in love with all the colors! I have never seen such strong brilliant colors; all the fruits for pujas! My experience of the heart and soul of Pune was wonderful! I had people walk up to me and introduce themselves, ask me to take their pictures, ask where I was from. I had one person who told me he loved Hillary Clinton and said that he hoped she would be the next President of America. With the surprise at this statement I started looking closer at the people hanging out in the fresh food market, I saw several people sitting and reading newspapers. I believe I saw more people reading newspapers out on the street than I have here in the US for a long time. We here in the States seem to prefer online news or no news at all.

I continued to follow Pari around the markets in wonder, I think one of my favorite areas was the bangle sellers. The colors were magnificent and the salesmanship of the bangle men was outstanding. I ended up buying several bangles and my niece loves her new bangles. I loved the fact that I wandered in many cramped, totally crowded lanes and never felt I was in danger at any time. No one grabbed at me, pushed me or even swore at me. From my 40 years experiences in the US, I can't say that I have ever been in that type of a situation without some very unpleasant interactions. I was fascinated to see the children run, pose and dance about as if they were a well orchestrated piece of spontaneous music. I couldn't quit taking pictures as they moved about to the unheard score of music.

I have taken a sacred vow to never drive in Pune and for that matter any city in India. I am confused and thoroughly entertained by the traffic and road conditions in India. I have no way to try and explain the traffic and roads to my friends here in the States as there are no words in the English language that I know that can aptly describe the experience. I remember one day in particular that a part of Nagar road was being repaved. The road was not shutdown and I had a sudden and deep understanding of the little misshaped bumps that seem to be in every road in Pune. I caught my understanding when I saw a man on a bike put his feet down in the hot tar and then suddenly ripped his feet from the ground, missing one of his sandals! I could only laugh and say "God bless India!"

To sum up my short stays in India , I love it, it is messy, inconvenient and the friendliest loving place I have ever had the opportunity to visit. I especially loved my few hours in the Mandai and I can only explain the experience by saying… Mandai is the equivalent to a world size helping of paan.T