Flower Show (published article)

It was a veritable feast; a spread of such gargantuan proportions as would satisfy gourmet and gourmand alike. Wherever one's gaze rested, the beauty either caressed or stunned the senses. Flowering plants of petunias, pansies, poinsettias, verbena, begonias, dahlias, peace lilies, marigolds, cannas, zinnias, gerberas, single and double asters, etc, in both soft pastels as well as bold, vivid hues, decorated the magnificent grounds of the Empress gardens, and perhaps even the ancient, gnarled trees that looked on them so benevolently from above, sighed in pleasure. Not only was every open ground, path and curve filled with thousand of blooming plants but even the many tanks reflecting the majestic trees, as well as the fountains and the small curling waterways. with their pretty white bridges, were all used most aesthetically as a backdrop for the splendid hues. The weather too was most agreeable, as soft breezes played all day. One eye catching display was of two Christmas tree like shapes, one decorated mainly with red roses and the other with many different flowers in bright colours, placed strategically beside a small tank, whose water then fell gently into a meandering waterway.

The exhibition itself consisted of different parts. There was an open air display of potted flowering plants, foliage, as well as beautiful bonsais that showed the perseverance, love, care and creativity of their owners. Flower exporters had donated exotic blooms often not found locally, in imaginative and gorgeous arrangements and one tent was used exclusively for these. In another tent a group called Mehak, which consists of very inventive and talented youngsters, displayed their creations. They usually focus on a theme and this year it was 'Save the Planet'. The displays which concentrated around concepts of minimal pollution, alternate sources of energy, population control, etc were a showcase of their ingenuity and skill. Ikebana, the Japanese art of arranging flowers in a balanced composition, too found its place here. To become fully proficient in this, it requires a person to give six exams over a period of twenty years, the last of which is in Japan. The last part was the flower competition, where many different kinds of flowers as well as a variety of roses were shown. One of the most beautiful flowers was a lovely orchid. The loveliest among the roses were the ones of two or more shades. A large red rose was named Queen of the show, sadly by evening Her Majesty looked quite fatigued. Besides these, there were a variety of vegetables and also a few cleverly designed exhibits using them skillfully cut. There were also many stalls selling plants and other gardening related products. People come from as far as Darjeeling to display their wares. One nursery stall that sold only dahlias was an absolute treat of astounding colours.

The Flower show has been organized regularly for the past ten years by the Agri -horticulture society of Western India. It is held any week end in January for three days and regular participants are invited a month and a half in advance. This time it was held from 25^th-27^thJanuary. It attracts about twenty five to thirty thousand visitors, including students from many Pune colleges as well as nearby districts. The show is held beside the playground so kids can be happily occupied while parents enjoy the various offerings. Magic shows, puppet shows and other entertainments are also arranged for them. The flower competition is judged by experts from The Agriculture College Pune, Botanical Survey of India and the Rose Society of Pune. A week before the flower show, a drawing competition is held on a Sunday morning at the Empress Garden, where school children under fifteen years are invited to participate. Their drawings are exhibited at the flower show.

Pari isms

A sunset of molten gold, cool drizzle on the face, a flower blooming in the wilderness, a child's innocent smile, a rainbow across the sky... so many wonderful events to which we are fortunate enough to receive an invitation.

Whatever you do there will be people who will object, deride or find fault, as long as your actions are ruled by your conscience don't worry about them

Why can't we enjoy moments just by themselves, moments suspended in time without past or future, why is every moment of beauty discoloured by fear of a future when it will not exist

Why do we think an inexhaustible Creation would limit itself only to elements we can see

Grievances are chains that shackle us to the past...only forgiveness can set us free... Forgive and move on, your future awaits..

If only men and women would celebrate each others presence in their lives each day we might have a happier world

Life usually writes more between the lines than on them and we are usually in too much of a hurry to read everything.

So you think you are generous? When did you last give someone the benefit of the doubt???

To be strong you have to know and master all your weaknesses

How sweet and simple would life be if only it wasn't so complicated

Would be wonderful if we could google our memory

One generations excesses lead to another generation's deprivations.

How can there be peace in the world when there is so much conflict in the homes

The world should be full of 'Happily Divorced People' as divorce seems to be the alternative to an 'Unhappy' marriage

Between the breath we take and the breath we will never take lies death

A contented heart and smiling face are better at defying age than anything in a tube, bottle or jar.

If words will result in hurt feelings, it is better to refrain from speaking

Vishrambaugwada Pune (published article)

Lost in their own thoughts and everyday problems, people walk unconcerned up and down Bajirao road, sparing hardly a glance if even that, for an exquisite example of the best of Maratha craftsmanship, the palace of Vishrambaug Wada. To many who throw it a cursory glance, it might stand like a question mark on the wall of time. One cannot blame them, for very few among those who pass it each day probably know much about its history.

Vishrambaug wada Palace was built by Peshwa Bajirao II, on a plot of land purchased by him from Shri Haripant Phadke in 1799. Work on it began on 26th March 1807 and it was completed by 20^th Nov 1808. The sole purpose of this Garden of Rest (Vishrambaug) was relaxation and entertainment.

The original entrance to this building is below the imposing cantilever balcony with elaborate carvings, which is supported by finely carved mythical creatures. On either side of the entrance stand intricately engraved teak pillars, shaped like Suru (cypress tree) trunks. To accentuate the beauty, even the beams are embellished with carvings of peacocks and parrots. The 40,000 square feet palace has halls and three courtyards (Teen Chowki). Its splendid architectural style of fine woodworking developed under the Peshwas. There are also influences of Rajasthani and Gujarati craftsmanship.

Peshwa Bajirao II continued residing at Shaniwarwada, making Vishrambaug Wada a second home, where he came to relax. There are stories that in his later life, when he suffered some ill health, his wife had a garden of Tulsi (Holy Basil) planted close by, (present day Tulshibaug) as this plant had curative properties for many ailments and even breathing in its vapours was considered extremely beneficial to health.

Vishrambaug Wada though has a very checkered past. Its days of glory were short lived. When the British took over Pune, its palatial splendour was turned into hallowed halls of learning. A school called the Sanskrit Pathshala was established here to teach the Vedas and Shastras in 1821 and later in 1828 the Elphinstone Engineering Institute was shifted here from Mumbai. It was still an important building in 1852, where Mahatma Jyotiba Phule was felicitated by Major Candy. Its slide into obscurity began, when the colleges were later shifted to their present locations. The major blow came when its front quadrangle was set on fire on May 13, 1879. From here on it became a victim of an unimaginative and apathetic administration. The British rebuilt the destroyed part in an uninspired and functional way. In 1930 the Pune Municipal Corporation bought the Vishrambaug Wada from the Government for Rs. 1 lakh and the second floor was built in 1933. The building was used to house the PMC till they moved to their present location in 1959. Besides housing the PMC, it has been used, by the police dept, by the health dept, as a ward office cleaning section, among other things, till this building that had already been stripped off its grandeur, also lost its heritage value. Walls, doors and rooms had been added willy-nilly as and when the bureaucracy decreed, till very little of its original beauty existed. Presently it serves as a post office and a library.

Perhaps this state of affairs would have continued endlessly, till tired of the abuse the Wada would have one day fallen down and passed away into obscurity, marked only by a few half hearted eulogies in the newspapers.

Fortunately such a situation has been averted by an extremely commendable decision taken by the PMC. Three years ago, when the Wada, which is on the heritage list, was in a dilapidated condition and due for extensive repairs, a key decision was reached, which will hopefully be the watershed in the maintenance of heritage structures in Pune. It was decided that instead of making functional repairs to the building it would be restored to its former beauty, using materials as close as possible to the original ones. The entire cost was projected at about Rs. 3 crores.

Civic heritage cell chief officer, Mr. Shyam Dhavale, supplied me with the information regarding the renovation and rebuilding. To maintain the originality of the construction and to avoid mistakes, the PMC appointed a 3 architect panel to overlook the rebuilding. Before anything could be built though, all the walls and rooms that had been so haphazardly constructed before, had to be brought down.

The first phase of the restoration began about two years back on the West side of the Wada. Now the third courtyard is almost complete, while work is going on in the second courtyard. Already 1.5 crore has been spent on rebuilding, restoring and beautification.

The care given to the restoration can be witnessed right at the entrance of the third courtyard or chowk, where one can see, not just the grand carved door but also the brick work around it, which is laid aesthetically with live mortar as it was in the days of the Peshwas, using not the ordinary bricks but a flatter, broader version called the ‘Pustak Veet’. Within the courtyard one cannot miss noticing the teak pillars, which after decades of being painted in oil paints, have now been scraped clean and treated again with linseed oil as they originally were. It is not just the pillars but the doors, door frames, windows, including the seven feet high ‘Mahirap’ windows with railings to sit by, that speak of the minute care given to detail here. Much of the wood has been replaced, with importance given to merging the new with the old. Rows of chandeliers have been chosen to match the ambience of the place. Fountains play in the courtyard adding to the feeling of peace.

Though the courtyard is hushed now, in this setting of grandeur it is not hard to imagine the chatter of ladies dressed in bright silken sarees, turbaned noble men of a bygone era strolling around, voices and laughter and the strains of music and song. One can only look forward to the day when the work will be complete and after decades of neglect and defacement, this pride of the Peshwas will once again attain its original, regal splendor.

Vishrambaug Wada is just the first in a long list of heritage buildings that will be restored to their original beauty. Two other structures which are being renovated in similar fashion are the equally important Nana Wada and the Trishund Nagar Ganesh Temple.

Nana Phadnis was an accountant during Peshwa Madhavrao’s reign but when underage Sawai Madhav Rao, son of Narayan Rao came to the throne in 1774, Nana Phadnis took over the administration and continued to look after it for twenty years. He built his mansion Nana Wada in the vicinity of Shaniwarwada in 1792, where his chief office was also located and from where his administration was carried out.

I was extremely fortunate to be loaned a project on Nana Wada by Mr. Priyal Mote a student of T.Y.B.Arch-Allana College of Architecture, for my reference. This has helped me to both learn as well as perceive details, which my layperson’s eyes would have surely missed.

Nana Wada with its timber framework is an excellent example of Maratha construction technology. Skilled carpenters were summoned from Rajasthan to carve the arches, doors, windows and Suru shaped pillars. The live mortar was prepared using clay, lime and jaggery. A public tank was also built opposite the Nana Wada

In 1892 the Deccan Education Society built the New English School, in what is assumed, to have been the rear part of the wada. There were marked differences between the structure of the Nana Wada and that of the New English School, both which reflected the times during which they were built, the availability of materials and expertise, as well as the prevalent tastes, preferences and priorities of their respective builders.

Whereas the Nana Wada had been designed for both beauty and functionality, fast construction and functionality was the priority during the building of the school. The pillars and arches in Nana Wada were mainly decorative but in the British structure they are used as spanning and load bearing elements. The Marathas were careful about aesthetics down to every small detail and even the railings of the balconies were made of intricately carved teak, but in the school the British have used cast iron railings. Use of glass for window panes was also introduced in this structure. The edifice reflects the period of the industrial revolution in England, with its faster construction techniques, use of stone arches and cast iron as major spanning devices. In 1953 the school was handed over to the Corporation and a records office was opened here, along with a new school; The Nutan Marathi Vidyalaya and a night school called Kinkar Ratraprashala.

It is Nana Phadnavis’ office quarter which is presently being renovated by the PMC. The entire restoration and beautification is estimated to cost about Rs 1 crore. Artisans have been called from Mumbai to work on it. Once more great care is being taken to keep the reconstruction as close to the original as possible. The ‘Meghdambaris’ (cloud shaped) decorative balconies in this building are the only ones of their kind in Pune. When we visited the site, work was going on in full swing and hopefully in a few months it will be open to visitors, who will have their breath taken away by the building’s magnificence.

PMC’s third ambitious restoration project is the Trishund Nagar Ganesh Mandir. This is a 300 year old temple which was constructed by the Gosawi Panth. There is no brick work here and the temple is constructed completely out of black stone. It has fine examples of Rajasthani, Mughal as well as Maratha architecture. Its front elevation is decorated by very rare sculptures. Its artifacts, carvings and sculptures are unique and not found anywhere else in Pune.

The temple has been damaged considerably. Trees are growing out of its walls and water is leaking through the roof, destroying the structure. The PMC has begun the renovation, by opening the roof to repair and prevent any further leakage, prior to starting on the rest of the structure. Beautification will be carried out in the second phase. What is singular about this project is that unlike the other two, this is an Archaeology Department trust property. This is the first time the Corporation will be spending its own money on re-doing a structure for the sole reason of maintaining its heritage value. There are over a hundred heritage buildings in Pune, many of rare beauty and one hopes that the PMC will continue with its admirable initiative.

Architecture of any place is the confirmation of its history. Moreover it is a chronicle in wood, stone and mortar that recounts the lives and tastes of those who passed before. The walls of old buildings are never mute; they speak to us with their shapes, materials, designs and age about people and times gone by. Therefore it is imperative to preserve these witnesses whose testimony we can rely upon, in their original form.

Kalote Lake

An invitation for a day picnic was most welcome after long days in the dust and smog of traffic jams and on Independence Day morning we made our way out of Pune, bound for Khopoli. Our destination was Kalote Lake, a few kilometers from Khopoli. We had been invited to Tudor Farms, a lakeside resort. We took the Pimpri Chinchwad road and the NH4 till Lonavla, only using the Expressway for the ghats, as we wished to avoid the inevitable crowds at Lonavla. The landscaping on the flyovers which have come up on the Pimpri Chinchwad road was a real delight as was the greenery later on.

Descending the ghats on the expressway, we noticed that ours was one of a few cars headed down, there was a steady stream of traffic headed upwards to Lonavala and Pune and avoiding Lonavla had been a wise decision. The mountains were obscured in clouds and sometimes so was the road, so we could not see much of the landscape, but fogs have their own beauty and the half hidden mountains and vales, with their hint of secrecy, were exquisitely breathtaking.

We took the first exit to Khopoli and from here our enjoyment of the verdant landscape began again. The road to Tudor Farms is on the right, a few kilometers from Khopoli, and the same road leads to the lake as well as to some of the waterfalls. There are other resorts on the road too.

The resort, which lies on the lake itself, was good for a day picnic, as the food and environs were both enjoyable, though perhaps not very comfortable for a longer stay. As we were there just for the day we enjoyed it thoroughly. The landscaping and layout of the grounds is done very aesthetically with twisting paths, small fences and abundant plant life. The cool, crisp, fresh air, free of pollution, the predominant green everywhere, rain drops on leaves, grass and flowers, giving a clean washed feeling, all rejuvenated the soul immediately.

The scenery was lovely. The lake is ringed by mountains and in the monsoons they are lush with silvery, snaking waterfalls. The sunlight playing hide and seek among grey clouds changed the atmosphere every so often. For a few minutes the waters would glow brilliantly then get a dark mysterious look as the sun once again sailed behind dark clouds. There were sudden showers that stopped just as quickly as they came and none of us were dry for long.

Of course getting wet is the main idea behind a monsoon picnic and the rain was not the only source; bathing in the lake, followed by a trek and a bathe in a waterfall close by, provided more of the same kind of entertainment.

There is more though to a day in the country, as life’s very pace slows down and one is able to notice and enjoy small pleasures; follow a butterfly’s flight, watch raindrops gently drip from a bright flower, listen to the birdsong or cowbells as the cows graze in open meadows or head home as evening comes. The sight and sounds of nature are like a gentle touch that soothes and heals mind, heart and soul.

A walk through the fields yielded many of these simple rustic pleasures. It is hard to describe the peace within when one is in harmony with nature. How much enjoyment small acts of lifting your face to the sky to feel it washed by a soft drizzle, or tasting a raindrop nestling on your lip can offer. It is only in a pastoral setting can one wholly realize the truth that the Earth does not belong to humans alone, we share it with the plants, the trees, the birds and animals, the very breezes and that in some inexplicable way we are all linked to each other and all belong to each other.

Developing Our Positive Energy (published article)

I am neither a spiritualist nor a philosopher. What I think or say has been observed and learnt painfully, usually from life’s everyday experiences. The following is the result of much soul searching and introspection after an extremely trying and hurtful time.

Energy is not only in us but all around us, not just the energy in the sun but in the breezes, the trees and plants, the animals even in the flowing water. It links us humans with the atmosphere and all of Creation. Each day begins with a flow of positive energy that lightens and gladdens the heart. The cool morning breeze at dawn, the brightness of the morning star, the soft filtered rays of the rising sun, the sweet bird song from the trees, all are designed by nature to lighten the spirit and bestow a feeling of well being in the human soul. Nature is a store house from which emanates a continuous flow of positive energy. If we concentrate solely on it, we can grow healthy in body, mind and soul. We can develop it by our thoughts, which in turn give rise to emotions leading to words and deeds that spread this energy.

It is when the energy is turned negative that it gives rise to many ills. Negative energy springs from destructive thoughts, emotions, words and deeds. These are the result of ills like anger, hatred, spite, envy, greed, suspicion, etc. It is sad but true that it is easier and more tempting to give in to these feelings and nurture them, till they not only take deep root but grow so strong that they take over the entire personality, till a person, who has one or more of these characteristics, becomes an extremely unhappy person, unable to see good in anything; frustrated and wallowing in his self created misery.

Negative feelings make the body sick and take over the mind totally, so that a person is unable to think straight, which affects all his decisions and actions. As a final blow they totally darken and destroy the soul. A continuous flow of negative energy from a person creates an aura around them that repels others and makes it hard for the person to succeed in the workplace, in relationships, or even develop meaningful friendships. In today’s times most of us give out at least some amount of negative energy.

Most commonly of course is the instance when someone says something insulting, abusive or hurtful; the natural and immediate reaction to it, is retaliation in equal or increased measure. Thus begins a cycle that may never end as the negative energy continues flowing from victim to perpetrator and back again, many times over, till hearts are hardened and hatred develops. Later, the circle could grow if others are dragged into the hostilities.

But suppose you want to stop this before it even begins to develop. Suppose instead of losing your temper you breathe deeply a few times and think rationally. Either the words the other person has uttered are justified or unjustified. If unjustified then how to they really affect you? When you retaliate you are reacting to someone else’s conscious or unconscious desire to pull your strings. You have become first of all a puppet and when you become that, you have lost control. Secondly, you have now begun a cycle that might take its toll of your health, your wits and your spirit. Every altercation, no matter how small leaves its marks on our mind and heart. It leaves a bad feeling behind, even if it is just some rude words you may have with someone on the road. After the words are said you realize that you lost control, and just that leaves behind a feeling of smallness and shame.

So, the only thing to do is take control. You decide how much you will react, and how you will react. Breathe deeply till the first feelings of anger subside, think rationally about what was said to you. Rid yourself of your rancour and instead answer politely. One might think it is impossible to do. Perhaps it is in the beginning, but not if one thinks continuously on those lines. Remember past incidents and think of how you could have reacted in a cool way that stopped them getting out of hand. Slowly you will get used to thinking in a manner that will change your attitude and one day being cool and calm will become second nature. Your composed way of handling things will be like a shield around you that will stop negative energy from penetrating or affecting you in any way.

Moreover become a source of positive energy. Take in as much of it as is possible, through the day, from all around you. Use all your senses to absorb the beauties of nature. Lift your face to feel the cool air, touch the softness of a petal. Breathe in deeply the boquet of flowers and the invigorating smell of the morning breeze. Let your mind and heart be gladdened by the sweet strains of birdsong. Wonder at the strength of a single blade of grass that has pushed its way through the hard earth. Dwell on the persistence and patience of birds that make their nests twig by twig, leaf by leaf. Open your senses; observe, note and remember. Through the day, try to turn your mind many times to some happy thought or the other; an innocent observation by a child, a word of encouragement or appreciation, a gesture of love, a smile from a stranger, till they outnumber the moments of stress and frustration. Most of all count your blessings and be grateful for each and every one. This will not only strengthen your spirit but also keep any damaging feelings of greed and envy which lead to spite and hatred, from developing. All these are like termites that eat away the very foundations of the soul.

Finally, become the active provider of positive energy. A word of appreciation, a ready listening ear, a helping hand, or even just a smile, spread positive energy rapidly, affecting all who are touched by them in more ways than one. You will be surprised at the happiness they give, not just to others but also to you, till you finally radiate with positive energy, attracting all around by its aura.

So We Moved to Pune (published article)

We are a statistic, one of thousands, who in the past few years, have decided to move to Pune for various reasons. Pune has in recent times become one of the sought-after new destinations in India, with its growing IT hub offering innumerable employment opportunities with attractive remunerations. A laid back lifestyle for those desirous of having one, exceptional educational facilities promising the youth a better, more successful tomorrow, good climate, and a serene environment for those hailing from congested cement jungles, add to its attractions.

Builders have professed that 40% of Pune is under green cover. This and similar claims extolling Pune’s natural beauty have done much to enhance its overall appeal, especially to those starved of any kind of interaction with nature. The numerous apartment complexes mushrooming all over Pune, offering luxurious, aesthetically designed homes set amidst verdant landscaping, have also added to its appeal. We are among those who have moved here seeking a better environment and a good education. Like all the others we have enjoyed good things and faced trials. The following is a personal account of what led us to Pune and the many bitter sweet experiences, trials, skirmishes and ensuing victories that I have gone through in the past year.

For years we had thought of finally settling in Mumbai, but its attractions had begun to fade severely because of its impossible traffic that had trebled the time it took to travel from point A to point B. Moreover, the humidity was killing, and some years back when we had arrived to find a place to buy, the roads were in a terrible state of disrepair. The closely built towering concrete structures, offering pigeonhole sized living quarters for exorbitant sums of money, suffocated me and lessened its desirability in every way. Pune in comparison seemed a more attractive proposition.

In 2003 Pune was a random choice for us. A place we knew little about in the beginning, but that lack of knowledge was soon rectified by a few days of browsing on the net. Our growing knowledge of the ‘Queen of the Deccan’ only convinced us of its suitability for our future needs. The very sobriquet of ‘Oxford of the East’ implied countless educational opportunities for our children. Tree lined avenues, proximity to places like Panchgani, Khandala, even the Konkan, added to its charm. Mumbai was a short distance away, and the expressway a dream to travel upon. We would not be ensconced right in the lap of the family, yet would be close enough to spend weekends with them. Its centralized location made Pune seem like the perfect spot from which paths diverged to innumerable exciting destinations. Visions of adventures and discoveries began dancing before our eyes. After living in the Mid-East for over twenty years the munificence of nature abounding here was especially enticing.

When we arrived, the roads were not in shambles, there were fewer buildings. The area we had zeroed in on was flanked on one side by a sleepy suburb with small villas and gardens and an equally sleepy village with all its idiosyncrasies, on the other. The apartment complex we chose was beautiful and built very well; my breath though was well and truly taken away by the sugarcane fields on either side. It was the teeming butterflies and birdlife, and last of all a kingfisher on a power line, that finally helped to clinch the deal.

The next three years were spent in a dreamlike state of anticipation. Ignoring detractors, I was filled by many unrealistic expectations where nothing could go wrong. Anticipating troubles is always a bad idea anyway, because troubles never come in the ways they are expected, but always find new means to manifest themselves. We also had no real way of knowing what troubles we would face. Difficulties also result directly from a lack of knowledge, and there is no way one can arm oneself with all the required knowledge. This only grows through time, a constant quest and through the daily exposure to the various sides and moods of a place.

In April 2005, with rose coloured glasses firmly in place, we arrived by road, from Mumbai, to Pune. Even through the pink tint of our glasses the initial shocks began imprinting themselves on our consciousness. Turning left from the Expressway into Pune, we were confronted with the potholes all the way till our home. We wondered what had become of the roads since we had last been here. In 2003 we had compared them favourably with Mumbai roads, but now we could not compare them favourably even with a bullock cart track, in the remotest village in India. I will leave that here, for enough has been written on the state of the roads and I am glad that many have now improved considerably, though no doubt countless backbones have paid for their previous neglect. Our second shock was the metamorphosis of our sleepy area, which had now turned into a throbbing glass and concrete IT hub. Any major metropolis would be proud of this blooming suburb with its state of the art complexes, malls and multiplexes. In vain I sought the quaint charm I had last witnessed.

Our little place too had become part of the outsourcing world. The once unending fields besides our complex now proudly sported a brand new call centre, with another on the way as well as a colossal apartment complex coming up a little distance away. We were told we should celebrate, the price of our property had more than doubled, but I only felt sad, as the greenery was the major inducement for this move.

I am sure that it is the same for a great many people who have come here seeking a life close to nature, and if the developers and government do not realize this quickly and plan better, Pune will lose all its charm and will become just another highly polluted, ugly, grey metro. Ironically proximity to nature is, even today a major incentive while advertising a new complex. What nobody says is that the nature is only there till another complex comes up, and then if you are lucky the people right outside your window might have some attractive potted plants on their balcony to make up for your loss. Wake up people, its time you realized that a cement jungle isn’t the kind of forest we envisaged when we moved here.

While the above were shocks, the problems were different. One of the first we faced was admissions. Newspapers while extolling the education opportunities in Pune never write about how difficult it can be to gain admissions. In almost every school we visited, it was impossible to meet the principal. Often we were turned away from the gate itself by the security. This was doubly disappointing as in those days we used to live in Mumbai and the rejection was really hard to take after traveling half the morning. There was no sympathy for the fact that we had traveled such a long way or that we were trying to resettle in our own country. I began to strongly suspect that the media was actually over hyping and selling Pune for some financial inducements other than the advertisements. Everyone who had promised to help us either seemed to be unavailable on their phones, or else permanently out of the city. This taught me that people here tended to make promises they either had no intention of fulfilling, or then no real way of keeping. It was always better to have other options and an alternate plan of action ready.

There were offers of admissions, on the payment of bribes to certain key people. People suggested there were those who could easily procure the necessary admissions for us on the payment of large sums of money. The idea of bribes was repugnant to me. There were suggestions and rumours of certain principals of schools also not being above accepting money, if the sum was substantial. I shuddered to think what morals and ethics such principals would help to inculcate in my children. These rumours, though unconfirmed and unsubstantiated could still not be ignored. It saddened me to think that in today’s India, the influence of the picture of the ‘Great Mahatma’ on the currency notes was great, while the influence of his life and teaching totally non-existent. Did they not feel ashamed when they looked at him, as they accepted the notes with his picture as bribe? How could we have begun from such lofty heights and ended in this ignominious place? Perhaps as we were at the highest point once there was no other place for us to go but down.

I though, was adamant that I would not buy a seat for either of my children. They had been brought up in a corruption free environment, and abetting bribery was not going to be their first experience or lesson in their home country. The other alternative was an international school. This seemed ironical as I had always been an advocate of Indian education in Kuwait. Here in India though, among all the ICSE schools I had no option left but to choose one of the newly mushrooming crop of international schools offering a Cambridge Certificate. The school I chose was new and they welcomed admissions. Each class was going to be limited to only twenty seats which assured personal attention from all the teachers. The counselor spent a long time with me, allaying my doubts and showing me all the certificates of recognition that the school had received, both from Cambridge and the Indian universities. In a way it was a moral victory too because though the fees were high, I was paying them by cheque for services offered, and not as a slimy, underhand bribe. As a word of warning to others, I have since then learnt that there are many touts who promise seats in educational institutions and desperate parents are only too happy to pay, sadly losing their money, so do beware.

The second problem we faced was also of admissions, and this time though we were offered in many colleges there was a problem of a delayed transfer certificate. Unfortunately, the transfer certificate arrived after many colleges had closed their admissions. Once again some people offered to get us admission in the college closest to us for the payment of a certain sum of money. Luckily for us, during our quest for a college we met a wonderful person, a professor in a reputable college where the admissions had already closed, who guided us to a newly opened college, where my daughter was sure to get admission. Here once again she was able to get individual attention and the lecturers were very helpful. Also the students here are much closer to their traditions and culture and so she too is able to learn much about it and about a way of living different from what she was used to. This pleases me immensely, especially when I see how fast this same culture is disappearing from many among us.

Once the admissions were confirmed we moved to our new home one afternoon with nothing more than a mattress, a couple of pillows and a few suitcases. Most of our things had arrived from Kuwait by ship till Chennai, and from there by road to Pune. The tin trunks and even the factory packed fridge, washing machine and stove took quite a beating. The house had no furniture and was still being painted so I was unable to open anything to check the state of their contents. This was a mistake as I could not claim the insurance. As the first rains had fallen on the very evening the goods were delivered, and the tin trunks had arrived damaged; this resulted in water seeping into the trunks and spoiling many of the books, clothes and other items in them. We had tried to pack them the best way we knew, using a lot of newspaper and tape yet we had been careless and perhaps even stupid. My advice to anyone who is shipping their goods is crate as many things as possible. Spend freely on bubble wrap and thermacol and see to it that your parcels are waterproofed. In the end the little expense and trouble will save a great deal. After I had buried my prized china and some other items lovingly cherished for years, I began the salvage operation. The fridge had a leak and all its gas was lost. The filter of the washing machine was totally punched in. The stove luckily had escaped without much trauma. I was lucky to find repairmen who were familiar with many of the latest models available abroad. They were also extremely scrupulous, professional and reasonable. All my household items are now in a working condition thanks to them.

Getting a gas connection was another problem. Wherever I went I was told that the company was not giving new connections for the next six months. They gave me a number, said they would be in touch and whispered under their breath that I should not hold mine. For a while we used a camp stove. Then one day I was directed to a lady in the village close by who had taken an agency for Pushpa gas. A very enterprising young lady, she is extremely meticulous and her favourite phrase is ‘no problem’. So far I have had none.

I faced many problems simply because I did not know where to buy things from. For months I was unable to do a simple thing like getting curtains stitched as most shops refused to stitch cloth that had not been bought from them. Finding a choice of hardware and lights etc was also very hard. Since then I have discovered places like Laxmi Road and Bori Ali which offer almost everything a person needs and at much reduced prices than Camp. Exploring the many lanes and by lanes here can help in considerably reducing the cost of many items needed while setting up house.

I think that the worst among my problems was not any of ones I have mentioned before but the auto rickshaw wallahs here. Their rudeness and unreasonable demands made life hell in the beginning. They cottoned on right at the start that we new little about the place. Many simply said they did not have a tariff card so we had to pay whatever they asked. Once, on returning after a week-end in Mumbai, we were conned by a rick guy who showed me a card, saying the tariffs had increased two days back. It was only later I realized that I had only looked at the amount he had shown with his finger and not at the card, which actually was a Mumbai card. Getting out of the house became a problem as we had to walk a long way before we got a rick. Returning home became a major problem too as the complex we had chosen to live in was a little away from the main road; they refused to come there without being paid at least 30 - 40 rupees extra. Often it was nearly impossible to find a rick even then. Many times I stood out for over an hour, often in the rain but no rick would have the decency to stop. I caught on very fast that they never had change, even if their pockets were bursting with it. They had no scruples about pocketing the difference if you were unlucky enough not to carry change. Evenings out became impossible as the mental stress generated by the rickshaw wallahs dissipated any pleasure we might have got out of a movie or dining out. Planning simple outings or trips became a nightmare. I know there are others out there who have had similar experiences, and will not think I exaggerate when I say that if I hated living in Pune in those first months, it was mainly because of the rickshaw guys. I sorted out the rickshaw problem by taking the cell numbers of every driver with a cell, who was good enough to drop us home without asking for extra money, or fighting half the way. Before that I had to take one to the police station, and threaten another with dire consequences, though I had no idea what they would have been. Fortunately he was unaware of my ignorance. Finally I have a list of decent men on my cell phone, who come to our building and do not put down the meter, till I am actually in the rick.

There is also a maid mafia in our complex and they control the rates and the hours. If one maid works for longer hours for less money she is soon dissuaded by the others. They never give one house more than two to three hours, often running from house to house leaving half the work undone. Many have ingenious ways of relieving the kitchens of extra rations. Our complex has many young, working couples who have no options but to give in to their demands. This makes it really difficult for others on a lower income, who have no choice but to comply with their unreasonable demands. The maids knowing they have full control take as many days off as they like. There are others who operate differently, making the women of the house totally dependent on them and then asking for loans regularly, which the latter then find difficult or often impossible to refuse. For the time being I am lucky with my maid but I really have not found a workable solution to this. I think only if whole neighborhoods united can this and the auto problem be solved. It is not easy to find such a collective will.

Another bad experience I have had has been with home tuitions. The agencies offering tutor services ask for complete payment in advance. This puts the parents completely in their hands. When one makes an enquiry they are promised the moon, two hours of tuitions five days a week, completion of portion and revision, and one free class, so you can try out the tutor. Of course once the money is in their hands then so are you. The timings are erratic; the five days become four and change so often that one loses track completely. The portion is too is completed at the speed of light and two days before the exam the tutor says that no revision was promised.

Home tuitions offer a great service and a very necessary one, as school teachers are not allowed to coach their students, so a few words of advice. Get it all in writing with the signature of the owner of the agency (you have no idea how fast staff changes here) and the tutor. If they refuse, dangle the carrot of needing tuitions all year long or tell them you have had a terrible experience with another agency before, and need to do this. Do not pay the money before you have that in writing and if possible break the amounts into two or three payments. They might insist on a complete initial payment but you can still try. Follow your child’s progress. See what lessons are required to be done, and see to it that the tutor explains slowly and properly, and that the child follows the explanations. Do not accept the tutor’s words for it. Ask him to give homework and to correct it. Make sure that the portion is completed and so is the revision. I seriously think that some kind of law should be made to regulate these people.

Another piece of advice I can offer based on my experiences here is information. Read the papers, browse the net, talk to people, and gather as much information as possible. When you file all this information make a mental note that at least 50% of it is doubtful or not to be wholly depended upon. Many of my problems only occurred because I took the words of others to be the Gospel truth. The only truth here is that we all have different and varying experiences and what might be right for others might not be right for you. Spend some time getting to know the city; it is a huge sprawling place so it will occupy many hours, but it will be worth it in the end. Compile a list of telephone numbers, if a workman comes to your house to do some work, save his mobile number on your cell as well as write it down in a phone book. Take telephone numbers of shops you go to. Most grocery stores deliver and this can save time and hassle. While reading the ads in the paper, write down numbers you come across, someone offering cable connection or the net or even a taxi to Mumbai or anything. You never know when you will need that number at a click. Keep your eyes open as you travel. Simply observing what you pass can teach you much, and that information can be really useful later on. Make a list of things you need to do and plan your route in such a way that you can do as much as possible without taking detours. This way you save time and money. When I go to pay my electricity bill, I also buy my fruits and vegetables and groceries as they all are in the same place. If I have to go to Kondwa I also do all that I have to in Camp. Simple things often simplify life.

It has now been a few months since we arrived here; it has been an uphill climb with some bad experiences being unique only to us. There has also been some unrest and a few incidences, since we have been here. One day was especially harrowing when my child was in school and a few people decided to stone the school’s buses. Today though, I think we have ironed out much and settled down to a relatively wrinkle free existence. Pune offers many pleasures and we have enjoyed some of them. We have also enjoyed the different seasons and the flora and fauna. Though we have not made many friends, we know many people.

I would have preferred a cleaner, less polluted Pune, with more landscaping on the roads but overall, it has been extremely pleasant. Learning about places, cultures, people, has been an enriching experience. We have discovered good places to shop and some pleasant gardens. Each day we learn some more and we live some more.

No place is perfect, but most places can with a little trying, be made to fit our needs. Pune is no exception.

Non Resident Indians Settling Back in Pune (published article)

Non resident Indians are found in almost every country on the globe and wherever they go they carry India within their hearts. They hold on tight to their food habits, their beliefs, their customs, language, dress, traditions etc. Shops crop up in distant parts of the earth to satisfy the NRI’s craving for their ethnicity. Festivals are celebrated with much gusto and zeal, in traditional dresses purchased for many times what they are worth in India. Tables are laden with every Indian dish and sweet and strains of Indian music light up the evening. Most NRIs, while enjoying the material benefits of different parts of the developed world, still long for India. Their greatest desire is that their children should be steeped in their own Indian culture, customs and traditions. To achieve this, many dream of returning to India and in recent years, with the developments and financial boom here, this dream has seemed attainable to many and a large number of NRIs have taken the step of coming back to their roots.

Has this move come up to expectations? We decided to ask a diverse group of NRIs that has returned from different parts of the world, what were the challenges and rewards of their move to Pune. Some were more open and forthcoming, others a little hesitant. A couple asked us not to use their real names. Most had many good things to say and also offered a few suggestions for improvement, for there is no reason on Earth why Pune cannot be brought up to par with other more developed cities of the world. And who better to offer advice than Indians who have lived aboard and enjoyed the facilities there? Our group consisted of Charishma Ramchandani who has lived most of her life previously in Muscat, Aparna Mazumdar, whose husband was a research scientist previously in The US and who had returned to India from Utah with her family after her husband had got a job in Pune, Neha Moorjani, a Puneite originally, who has returned from Zambia for her daughters’ education. Others were The Parmars who had returned to India from the US after 15 years, Naresh Budhrani who had been born and brought up in Hong Kong and had moved to Pune in 2005 and Neeta (name changed) who had lived all her life in Japan and Hong Kong and had moved to Pune with her husband and children.

Charishma Ramchandani, who lives with her parents, is very enthusiastic about living in Pune. Besides Muscat she has also lived in Florida and feels that India and Pune is for her. According to her it is a place where one can grow, earn, learn, care and share, and be with family and friends. It is a land where you don't feel the undercurrent of being out of place. She has had only good times mainly and thanks God each morning for that. She loves the climate especially the monsoons, finds the people helpful and friendly, environment peaceful and getting around, not that bad. She delights in the many festivals and treasures these moments of closeness to her culture and her people. Charishma has trained as a Nursery school teacher here and plans on opening her own nursery in the new Academic year.

Of course settling down for them has not been cakewalk. There have been horror stories and struggles with the likes of Internet service providers, gas agencies, telecom companies and even the MSEB, when they did not have power for over twenty days. Getting workmen for repairs as well as household help too has not been easy, but these have with help, been managed finally. Though she would like to see more regulated traffic, better roads, and toilets for men and women, over and above her life here has been an extremely positive experience and she is relishing every moment of it.

Arpana Mazumdar used to work as a lab specialist in the nephrology department of the VA Medical Center, Salt Lake City, Utah. Though her move involved the usual difficulties of internet, gas and phone connections, laid back attitude of the workmen, difficulty in getting maids and drivers etc, her real challenge has been helping her girls to adjust to what she describes as a drastically different environment. She has to give them more time and attention as they adjust here. She has faced problems with her family adjusting to the environment here, and managed by spending time with them and having her family as well as friends visit from Kolkata. She feels that perhaps the transition was harder for them as Pune isn’t their home town. She is positive though, that the results of the move will soon come up to their expectations.

When asked if they felt closer to their culture here than in the US, Arpana said that her family was in touch with their roots and culture in the US as well as Pune. They had many culturally enriching programs such as music, drama, and colourful celebrations of all traditional festivals in the US which they did together as an NRI community. Her family shares a common passion for music, which they continue to participate in, in Pune as well.

Arpana who is also trying to get more involved in NGOs and children’s organizations here in Pune, loves the weather as well as the people of Pune, but thinks the infrastructure here is not up to mark for a city of this size. She is certain that it can and should be better managed. She suggests that better roads, more flyovers and traffic lights, less load shedding, and preservation of natural resources, and more open air areas like parks, where people can spend time, can definitely raise the living standards in Pune. The many ancient vehicles on the roads, that release inordinate amounts of harmful gases, which are unhealthy to inhale and pollute the air unbearably, also need to be taken care of. Littering too is a major issue concerning the city. It not only makes the city appear untidy, but is harmful to the environment and strict action should be taken to prevent it.

She asserts Pune is a city naturally blessed with hills, lakes, and a pleasant climate, and we need to make use of it efficiently.

Neha Moorjani returned to India with her girls because she wanted a quality life for them, as life in Zambia was pretty lonely and there was not much to do after school. They did not face many of the normal problems that most NRIs have had to struggle with, as they already had their apartment and getting admission in school was not hard at all.

Things though are not the way she expected, as much in Pune has changed from what she knew and for the worse.

She worries a lot about her girls, as kids nowadays she says, want to hang out a lot and give less time to their studies. There is too much exposure to a lot of negative things. When they are out one doesn't know with whom they interact. It’s frightening to hear that someone met with an accident and got himself killed. She did expect India to be much safer. She adds that bringing up kids is a challenge anywhere in the world today. The girls do have a better social life with friends in their complex who they enjoy meeting and playing with in the evenings.

About the city she says that there is too much haphazard development and bad infrastructure. Pune is getting dirtier and the roads are pot ridden. Nothing is organised and traffic has increased by leaps and bounds.

She adds that though Zambia is a third world country and there is a lot of corruption and illiteracy, the people are more courteous. The infrastructure too is better and the traffic is more organised.

Neha’s husband is still in Zambia and comes down every two three months at which time they just eat out mainly. As she drives, she avoids traveling to the outskirts of Pune, which can be an ordeal due to the traffic. In general the traffic does put her off going out most of the time.

Mohini Parmar who was a travel consultant and lived in the US for 15 years, has been living in Pune for about a year now. She and her husband chose Pune for their son’s education; after all it is called the ‘Oxford of the East’. Another reason was that they wished him to learn and understand their culture. The climate too is definitely better than that of many of the bigger cities. Of course settling down has been fraught with difficulties. Getting admission in school for her son was a big problem. She was shocked by the arrogant behavior of the school administration. It was also difficult to get internet and gas connections. After making a payment for an internet connection, she was told by the company that the internet would be connected within 5 days. However, it took almost four weeks to finally get it. It took six months to get a gas connection. During this period she had to use a single electric stove since she refused to buy a gas cylinder in the black market. Transportation continues to be a problem in the area she lives in. What she really considers as a major problem is cheating and lying by at least 75% of the people she has dealt with. A frustrating experience she is still learning to deal with. Traffic too is a problem as the roads are bad and people normally do not follow traffic rules.

She would like to see a better planned and developed infrastructure. She says that wherever dishonest, corrupt and value destroying people are in charge of the development process, the people of that place suffer with haphazard progress.

Though the move has not come up to all their expectations, she does say that she has been able to bring her son approximately 60% closer to his roots, tradition, culture, spirituality, etc.

Naresh Budhrani has now lived in Pune for two years. He moved here for business reasons and also because his family lives here. For him the most difficult part was getting accustomed to the way the people handled things here. Nothing was systematic and it was hard for him to get used to that. Now, though it’s been two years, he does see some light at the end of the tunnel. Things don’t seem as bad to him as they felt in the beginning.

Naresh loves Pune’s greenery; though it is diminishing it’s still far more than Hong Kong. He is also happy that his children are learning the language and getting closer to their grandparents. He enjoys going to the gym and plans to take up ballroom dancing but wishes that there were more playgrounds for children and more recreational places for adults. He does add that that when they got here, there were hardly any malls or places to go to but now slowly there are more places to visit.

Naresh advises any NRIs who wish to move to Pune to be very patient as it takes time to get used to the people and the way things are done here.

Neeta who did not wish me to use her real name, is a paralegal who has now lived in Pune close to two years, with her husband and two children. She has lived in Japan and Hong Kong all her life before moving here. Their main reason for moving was the lack of educational and career opportunities for their two children and also because they wished to be closer to family. Neeta has been lucky as she has not faced many of the normal problems of household help, labour etc. She is also satisfied with the school. They did, however, expect it to be cheaper to live in Pune then in Japan but strangely in many ways it is not.

Equally strange is the fact that the everyday experience of culture and spirituality is far stronger in the little Hindu temples or Indian communities abroad. There is more “unity” and bonding abroad that is missing here. She feels that children in India do not like religion and prayer. She misses that part of her life in Japan – the closeness of all the Indians in the community and the coming together during certain festivals, weddings, births, and even deaths. Her children frequented the temple and learned the ancient mantras and prayers in Japan. When they planned moving to Pune, she had expected they would be coming home to the “roots of spirituality” but those roots are being uprooted and immorality taking over. Indians in India she says are aping the western habits in all the wrong ways. Instead of learning good HR, managerial and PR skills from the west, Indians are learning how to use guns to shoot their fellow classmates, expose their skin, use abusive language, disrespect their elders, teachers, and have attitudes not only with others but also with themselves. She finds this extremely sad.

On the whole though, Neeta enjoys living here. She has nice neighbours, likes the food and the fact that it is a quiet place unlike bustling cities like Mumbai, Hong Kong or Tokyo. She appreciates the peace and quiet. She likes to walk and swim in her housing society and enjoys reading. She has also been quite lucky to have found a home-based job in the legal field in Pune. She is also happy to be close to her family as her children can now spend quality time with their grandparents and uncles, aunts and cousins. This was something that they missed abroad.

She does however; dislike the pollution, the garbage on the streets and the nonchalant attitude of the people staying here, which seems to say that “yahan sub kuch chalta hai”.

According to her, the citizens need to be more responsible about their neighborhood and those living in it, not just themselves. Garbage control is very important. She advises the builders of magnificent housing complexes, to go a few extra steps and pave the street outside, rather than dump their construction garbage there!

She very rightly says that the general feeling should be of a PUNE for US. Not a PUNE for ME, which should generate a feeling of brotherhood and a sense of working together for the betterment of Pune as a whole.

In conclusion as an NRI who has moved to Pune myself, I can only add that Pune is a beautiful city; it has a climate one dreams about, is bright, colourful, vibrant, thriving and throbbing with life. It has its own many attractive characteristics and is a melting pot, within which so many diverse and interesting cultures flourish. Pune though is also on its way to take its place among the cities of the world and for this, care has to be taken that its offerings are equal to what they offer. Complacency should be avoided at all costs. With a little bit of forethought, proper planning and execution many of its shortcomings can be corrected. It would be great to find good roads, landscaping, proper services and facilities and all the other things that most residents of developed countries take for granted in their daily lives.

Shopping for Vegetables at Shivaji market Pune (published article)

Where does one shop while planning a party, trying out new continental recipes or when just in the mood for some exotic vegetables? Does one browse down supermarket aisles or just shop at a single stall in Shivaji Market? Yes strangely, you would find almost anything you need at stall 164/165, which belongs to Yashoda Mausi.

Yashoda Mausi or Mrs. Yashoda Pralhad Saykar runs this three generation old family business, begun by her grandmother-in-law. An intimidating lady, she sits atop her stall of neatly piled vegetables all day with almost the same air as a sovereign on her throne, for undoubtedly she is the uncrowned queen of this market. Her little kingdom is a bright and colourful land. On the wall opposite her are posters proclaiming ‘Saykar Vegetable Suppliers’ with pictures of a variety of exotic vegetables and herbs. Suspended bell peppers in red, green and yellow, packed in plastic, cheerfully hang before her, tied to some hooks that have been fixed for the purpose. Similarly packed, bright cherry tomatoes hang close by, adding another merry note. Fresh asparagus, bunches of fragrant celery, dark green avocados, yellow and green squashes, baby corn, mushrooms, broccoli, leeks, different kinds of lettuce all vie for space with their more common cousins - onions, potatoes, tomatoes, pumpkins, gourds, beans, peas etc. Everything is fresh and inviting. For the busier housewives, with little time, Mausi also has peeled garlic. The produce comes from many parts of India. The peppers are from close by Pandharpur, the asparagus from Nashik, other vegetables come from Bangalore and some even from the far North.

Assisted by her two sons, Mausi supplies fresh vegetables to many restaurants and hotels in Pune. Le Meridian, Sun n Sand, Mainland China, La Pizzeria, are just some of the many names they reel off. How did she manage to become the supplier to so many prestigious establishments, especially the hotels? Mausi quickly clears the clouds of doubts by chirping up “Tender diya tha”. She may be uneducated in the way of books but with her shrewdness and savoir-faire she is in no way naïve or ignorant. One cannot help but hold her in some awe and grant her the respect her achievement deserves, for she has built up the business by her own skill. Even today most other vegetable sellers do not have the courage to offer anything more than the traditional wares. When asked, they say that only Yashoda Mausi manages to sell the rarer produce.

It wasn’t an easy climb for her though, but in her face you can see her determination. About ten years ago when asked by a few people for vegetables she had never heard of, Yashoda Mausi was not fazed by her ignorance but made it her job to find out about them and their suppliers. In the beginning demand for exotic vegetables was little and the business did not fare very well with this daring new venture. Yashoda Mausi though, kept on and slowly built up a customer base for this new offering. In spite of supplying to restaurants and hotels, Mausi still runs the stall herself all day long.

Some customers order in on the land line or cell phone, others come by personally. Early in the day, chefs can be seen here rattling off names from their lists. Other customers come from all over and many a sophisticated lady is found here, smartly dressed, carefully choosing her vegetables. Of course Mausi isn’t too happy if her neat piles are upset too much, but then it is not really necessary to look very carefully, as her produce is always fresh. Mausi also frowns upon bargaining, and the furrow in her brow quickly discourages any would be hagglers. Full of homegrown wisdom, she realizes that while she is busy wrangling with one over a few rupees; she could be losing other customers. As a rule she quotes the only price she is willing to sell at or slightly more.

Shopping at the Saykar stall is an experience and Mausi usually manages to leave an indelible impression on her customers.

Mandai with Teri (Published article in Collaboration with Teri Hall)

Teri was in India for a while but I met her just two days before she was scheduled to return to the US. She had seen much of Pune but had missed the Mandai and Tulshibaug. Knowing she would love the Mandai I offered to show her around and made it on morning of the last day of her stay.

At the Mandai we spent an incredible two hours, wandering among the lanes and by lanes, taking in the different colours and sights of the various stalls. Showing Teri around and explaining various things to her, I realized how much of our culture and customs were entwined with these lanes. So many items available in these stalls were used for ceremonies, pujas, marriages, and the everyday activities of us Indians. They manifested more than any other things, our true distinctiveness.

On the way we had stopped for quick pictures at Kumbhar wada and Shaniwar wada.
At Kumbharwada through explaining about the brightly painted pots and tiny earthen diyas, I had informed Teri about Dahi handi and Diwali.

Reaching the Mandai we began our exploration from the shops that displayed brassware; temple bells, lamps, intricately made statues from Nepal and South India. There was one especially beautiful statue, of Lord Krishna we both admired, very elaborate in its design and details. Passing the shops of utensils, the stacks of burnished copper samovars caught Teri's eye and I explained how they were used.

We entered one of the lanes of the Mandai, where a host of paan shops with their display of bright green and glossy paan leaves were a treat for us photographers. A lady sat on the ground selling fruits on little thalis and I explained to Teri that the fruit was for puja offering. We passed lanes of fruit sellers, vegetable sellers, and then reached the Burud Ali. Burud children, small and big immediately began posing for group photographs. Whenever I take pictures of children playing on the streets of Pune, it never fails to amaze me how quickly they gather in the most endearing poses and how well behaved they are. Teri just couldn't stop clicking.

Later passing the shops selling their vivid and vibrant coloured wares for pujas and marriages, we entered the little lane of bangle shops. Here a bangle seller offered to show Teri his wares and made her wear a beautiful set of coloured metal bangles. Teri was quite entranced with the beauty of the bangles and bought them, also buying some for her niece. Later, at another shop where she bought a set of handmade dolls, the shop keeper presented her with a henna cone. Everyone was extremely captivated with her manners and her way of slightly bowing her head to thank people for their kindness, or for posing for a picture.

From the Mandai we made our way to Tulshibaug which added to the enchantment Teri had already experienced at the Mandai. One of the sights that entranced her was the flute seller, softly playing his melodious flute.

At the end of the visit she said she could wander in those lanes for days.
Though Teri has returned to the US she has been kind enough to agree to share her impressions and feelings on her visit to India and especially to the Mandai.

I arrived for my first visit to India in mid March. I had very little expectation or pre-conceived notion as to what India was or was not. I brought my 18 year old son with me. For my first visit we flew into Delhi. Although being tired and disoriented I couldn't help but to stand in the international airport and stare at a large sign that read something to the effect of "We could do our laundry by machine, but it wouldn't decorate our landscape!" After receiving our luggage, we found ourselves whisked off to the domestic airport for our flight to Pune. We were dropped at the wrong terminal at the domestic airport and so we decided to walk to the correct terminal. I was amazed and totally entertained by all the new sights, smells, traffic and what I perceived as organized chaos. We walked down a little alley where a group of teenage boys were hanging out. At first I felt a little intimidation and fear of the group. This fear and intimidation turned quickly into amazement as one of the boys unzipped his jeans and relieved himself on the street. My son was horrified but I couldn't stop laughing.

I had a wonderful experience my first stay in India, while my son couldn't get home soon enough. He is 6'4" with blond hair. Because of his physical size and blond hair he was the object of stares, whispers and amusement. Because of his age he felt self conscious and uncomfortable. While in Pune for work, I also took the opportunity to explore and learn. My favorite part of the Indian culture that I got to participate in was the school yard game of Kabadi. My co-workers were amazed that I knew of the game I and asked them to teach me. It was fantastic! As soon as I got back to the US , I taught all my nieces and nephews. It is now the favorite game at our family parties!

I arrived back in India in the first part July; I was so excited to come back to Pune. India is now a part of who I am and I will never stay away for too long. This time in India most of my precious time was spent at work and I had little opportunity to explore the immense city of Pune . Because of this, I spent my free time wandering the little roads and neighborhoods near my apartment. There is a little water buffalo farm that I enjoyed visiting very much. One morning I wondered over there with my camera. I was invited to take pictures of everyone working there and of the buffaloes. There was a little calf that would smile when I petted his head, he was especially cute!

I had been warned by my company that I needed to be very careful wandering the streets of Pune. I was cautioned that it was dangerous and I should never go anywhere alone. I did not find this to be the case at anytime. I believe that I was in greatest danger any time I was in traffic.
My last day in India was by far my most favorite and memorable day. Pari took me to several wonderful places that I had never heard of. According to her these places were the heart and soul of Pune. I got into the Mandai and found myself in heaven! I stood there in a daze in the busy streets with myriads of people, being totally amazed at the ways of life, the skills, and the cacophony of noises, smells and colors!

I have experienced paan before and after experiencing the Mandai I have to say, that the explosion of sensations I experienced when I popped that first paan into my mouth, is the same explosion of sensations I had standing in the middle of the street in the Mandai. It was fabulous!

The Mandai building is an amazing architectural wonder. I couldn't seem to be able to get enough pictures of it. I also am fascinated and in love with all the colors! I have never seen such strong brilliant colors; all the fruits for pujas! My experience of the heart and soul of Pune was wonderful! I had people walk up to me and introduce themselves, ask me to take their pictures, ask where I was from. I had one person who told me he loved Hillary Clinton and said that he hoped she would be the next President of America. With the surprise at this statement I started looking closer at the people hanging out in the fresh food market, I saw several people sitting and reading newspapers. I believe I saw more people reading newspapers out on the street than I have here in the US for a long time. We here in the States seem to prefer online news or no news at all.

I continued to follow Pari around the markets in wonder, I think one of my favorite areas was the bangle sellers. The colors were magnificent and the salesmanship of the bangle men was outstanding. I ended up buying several bangles and my niece loves her new bangles. I loved the fact that I wandered in many cramped, totally crowded lanes and never felt I was in danger at any time. No one grabbed at me, pushed me or even swore at me. From my 40 years experiences in the US, I can't say that I have ever been in that type of a situation without some very unpleasant interactions. I was fascinated to see the children run, pose and dance about as if they were a well orchestrated piece of spontaneous music. I couldn't quit taking pictures as they moved about to the unheard score of music.

I have taken a sacred vow to never drive in Pune and for that matter any city in India. I am confused and thoroughly entertained by the traffic and road conditions in India. I have no way to try and explain the traffic and roads to my friends here in the States as there are no words in the English language that I know that can aptly describe the experience. I remember one day in particular that a part of Nagar road was being repaved. The road was not shutdown and I had a sudden and deep understanding of the little misshaped bumps that seem to be in every road in Pune. I caught my understanding when I saw a man on a bike put his feet down in the hot tar and then suddenly ripped his feet from the ground, missing one of his sandals! I could only laugh and say "God bless India!"

To sum up my short stays in India , I love it, it is messy, inconvenient and the friendliest loving place I have ever had the opportunity to visit. I especially loved my few hours in the Mandai and I can only explain the experience by saying… Mandai is the equivalent to a world size helping of paan.T